The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating permanent, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on